Woven in Margilan, one of the most ancient cities in Uzbekistan, rarefied is the finest of all the silks in the Nutwood Collection. Also known as gossamer or butterfly silk, it weighs only 8g per square metre. It is around 90cm wide and has a high lustre which it maintains after dyeing.

The silk is ideal for nuno felting; scrunched up it gives surface texture, laid flat it integrates with the surface of the felt. It can be used to give stability to cobweb felt while adding little weight, or as a base for very thinly laid fibre when making a garment that needs to drape.  It can also be used to trap down surface decoration.

Although Margilan rarefied would seem ideal for scarves, it is difficult to use as a standalone base fabric because it is so delicate. If applying a surface pattern, the yardage should be first covered by a whisper thin layer of fibre and the motifs kept quite close together. The motifs must be ultra-lightweight to avoid distorting the weave and giving an uneven drape and weak spots. When creating a grid or diamond pattern, the fibre must be laid finely in multiple overlapping wisps with the lines kept close together. A little time spent sampling will avoid disappointment with the finished garment, particularly if unfamiliar with very fine silk. Margilan Gauze is recommended as a scarf weight silk.

A few things you should know before you purchase …

• All quoted measurements and weights are approximate;
• The silk has an uneven weave throughout, and there are parts with snags and weak spots. This is not a fault, it is part of the charm of Margilan rarefied silk and any imperfections will disappear into the surface of the felt;
• A constant width is not maintained along the length, it varies from 87-90cm.